The greenery, the Nile, the birds and the summer breeze lured Amira El-Noshokaty into Egypt's oldest and biggest garden Why now? Summer weekdays in Cairo usually consist of hot humid mornings, dusty afternoons, and endlessly crowded streets in the evening. Typically, in order to escape from the routine, you could spend your weekend by one of the two seas -- but your days will often be as hot and your evenings as rowdy. Think green. Think of endless horizons, a fresh summer breeze filled with the sound of birds singing and fresh water. Al-Qanatir, or the Barrages, serves as a new kind of retreat, one which has the added advantage of being cheaper than the average beach or desert resort. Horse-back riding amidst greenery, instead of the usual Sahara escapades, could be unforgettable. Riding bicycles and motorcycles could be other options. For more relaxing excursions, horse carriages can take you slowly on a romantic ride through small roads that wind through green meadows. You can take your fishing rod and join old fishermen. They spend their mornings on a bridge built above the main entrance gate. There you can hear all about the social history of the place, first hand. On an artistic note, you can take your notebook, sketchbook, or your musical instrument, and sit in the shade of the nearest tree and drift away. Getting around All main roads lead to the Barrages. BY LAND By car, it takes 45 minutes to reach the Barrages. You can either take the Alexandria Agriculture Road, which is not recommended because it is bumpy and full of mechanic workshops on both sides of the street. Or, you can do as I did: take the 15th of May bridge, take the Imbaba exit, drive straight down, and avoid taking other bridges, just continue in a straight line. Eventually a re-assuring road sign will come your way saying Al-Qanatir, or the Barrages, after you pass the Ministry of Irrigation's premises. Public buses are another option. Number 214 and 210 from Abdel-Moneim Riad bus terminal are among the daily regular means of transportation. ON THE NILE There is a very unique opportunity to sail one's way to the Barrages. The sailing trip takes approximately 90 minutes. The trip starts on the Nile bank that faces the Television and Radio building -- Ramses Hilton's Nile view. Several motorboats with an average capacity of 100 passengers operate a daily service. There are two daily trips: one leaves Cairo at 9.30am and returns from the Barrages at 3pm, and the other starts at 12 noon and departs from the barrages at 4pm. A return ticket costs LE6. The Nile buses operate only on Sundays and Fridays and National holidays from 6am to 6pm for LE2. City fact file Al-Qanatir Al-Khairiya, or the Good Barrages of Mohamed Ali, is famous for its vast areas of green space and river side walks, and sails. It is located some 15kms north of Cairo where it is tucked in between the two branches of the Nile. It strategically lies at the point where the Nile splits in two branches -- Demietta and Rosetta. Inaugurated on 30 August 1863, it offers 400 squared kilometres of parks planted with rare species of trees. The Barrages came as one of Mohamed Ali's successful attempts in the 19th century to tame the Nile water and use it in irrigation projects. To ensure the right water level and increase the green areas in Egypt, Mohamed Ali sought a practical method to manage the Nile waters. His search was translated into the construction of the Delta Barrages in 1843. By building the Delta Barrages, Ali was able to control water levels, channel excess water into several canals that covers more cultivated land and to convert the irrigation system from one that could handle seasonal irrigation to a permanent one. He was the first to introduce cotton plantations to Egypt, which was later one of the great sources of economy and was often known as the white gold of Egypt. Must see The waterfalls: Shortly before reaching the Barrages of Mohamed Ali, you will see when you look to your right the famous shallalat (waterfalls) area on the Rosetta branch of the Nile. When the water is relatively low, one can cross from one bank to the other on the water. It is said to be the perfect romantic walk, as it is literally a walk on the water. Afterwards you can watch the day pass by as you sip tea with mint at the only cafeteria with the waterfall view on this Nile bank. Your own island: Past the waterfalls lies what is referred to as the local beach. There people can camp by the Nile and spend the day. Tents are available for hire. And small feluccas, row boats and motor boats are also available to take you to one of the small islands scattered in the Nile. But do not be fooled by the serenity of the water. Lots of drowning happen so do not take the risk of swimming. A Nile trip: After you cross over the Barrages from the main entrance, on your right there is a relatively small garden that overlooks the Nile. There you can rent a speedboat for one hour. The boat can take up to six people and sails around the two Nile branches, by the Barrages of Mohamed Ali, the Behirah and Nassarah canals. In the gardens: Crossing the main gate of the garden, off the little square, you'll find a variety of bicycles, motorcycles, hantour (horse carriages) and horses for rent at rates ranging from LE6 to LE25. There are no fixed rates. You can use such facilities to move around or just to spend the day amidst the greenery. You can also spread your mattress, unpack your picnic basket and have a nice meal. Bring the novel that you've been aiming to read for ages, or perhaps your favourite music. Birds singing, and butterflies wandering about makes it a safe haven for meditation. Take your shoes off and relax on the grass, seeking shade from the nearest tree. The entrance fee for the garden is 50 piastres per person. It is open from 9am to 4pm daily. On the Nile Bank: Once you get there, you can turn right and check out the Irrigation Museum, which is located right next to the beautiful villas of the agrarian engineers. Take the same road left, then take a right where a big sign says Morgana touristic village. This village is practically the only private village in Al-Qanatir, and is the main source of facilities. It offers a restaurant, as well as a café with a Nile view. This is your only option for a nice place for food and beverages inside the Barrages. The whole meal does not exceed LE21 and the minimum cost of beverages is LE2.50. Later, you can enjoy one of the sailing trips offered by the village where you can sail into the sunset. For entertainment, to the left of the restaurant and café there is a modest fun- fair for children to enjoy. There are dancing ballrooms with very loud sound effects. Check-in If you want to spend the night there, Morgana Nile cabins are your only chance. There are about seven two-storey cabins. Some have two bedrooms, others have three, with their facilities. Day rates vary between LE150 for two-bedroom cabins, and LE200 for the three-bedroom cabins. These rates exclude meals. However, you can bargain over rates. Morgana village with all its facilities is open from 9am to 11pm. Adjacent to Morgana village, there are day-use Nile cabins run by the military. If you are a civilian or a foreigner and want to rent one of these cabins you have to contact the Armed Forces' headquarters in Abbasiya, Cairo and take permission. Dining out It is strongly advised to take your food and beverages with you from home. In case you changed your mind, here are some options that are recommended by the locals: you can check out the market place for Al-Hag Darwish the best fish restaurant, Al-Hag Saleh Omar for the best kebab and Al-Shahhat and Sheikh Al-Arab for the best fuul and taamiya.
