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Another side of Egypt
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 02 - 12 - 2004

From diving with Cleopatra to sand skiing, from cruising the Nile on a felucca to fishing for the biggest perch on Lake Nasser, there are a myriad original ways to spend Xmas and New Year in Egypt. Rehab Saad invites you to open your mind
Travellers to Egypt always have many options as to how to spend the Xmas and New Year vacation. Traditionally, most people converge on Cairo, or travel to Luxor and Aswan in Upper Egypt to enjoy the ancient sites, dry warm weather and picturesque scenery of the Nile. There are also those who prefer Sharm El-Sheikh or Hurghada on the Red Sea, where they can enjoy the sand and sun, the coral reefs and their rich marine life.
However, there is much more going on at this time of the year in Egypt than just archeology and fun in the sun. Those who want to spend their vacation in a less traditional way should not be shy to branch out. Many unusual pleasures await them: staying in an ecolodge on a private island in Siwa, or cruise the Nile from Cairo to Aswan on a felucca. The more adventurous can take a 4X4 and join an expedition to Gilf Al- Kebir in the southwestern desert, or tour the White Desert to the west. If you have good lungs and strong legs, you can even dive in the Mediterranean off Alexandria and discover the sunken treasures in the eastern harbour or the wrecks of warships and aeroplanes dating from World War II that slumber offshore from Marsa Matrouh.
If that's not enough to whet your appetite, why not try skiing on sand in the desert around Siwa Oasis? And if you prefer a gentle game of golf, this could be the opportunity to tour the most challenging greens in Egypt.
So open your minds and use your imaginations! If the idea of being different appeals, here are some of our more interesting suggestions:
TEEING OFF WITH THE PHARAOHS: Golf fans who want to combine their favourite game with culture and entertainment will find themselves ideally catered for by a comprehensive package offered by several travel agencies in Egypt.
If you didn't know, there is a golf course in every major Egyptian city: the capital alone is home to seven courses, the Red Sea has two, while Alexandria, Luxor and Sharm El- Sheikh have one each. Most of these golf courses are either adjacent to an ancient site that you can visit after you finish your game, or are situated in a seaside resort which offers water sports and scenic beaches in addition to the main attraction.
Minerva Travel and Tours are offering a 10-day/nine-night itinerary where golfers can try all the most famous courses in Egypt, as well as finding time for a rich sightseeing and entertainment programme. The itinerary tees off on the 18-hole Pyramids Golf & Country Club in Soleimania Golf Village on the Cairo-Alexandria highway, followed by a visit to the Egyptian Museum, Khan Al-Khalili and the Sound and Light Show at the Giza Plateau. It also includes a game on the nine- hole Dream Land Golf Course in 6th of October City, followed by a visit to the Pyramids and the Sphinx on the Giza Plateau. You then move on to try two of the most challenging courses on the Red Sea: the 18-hole Steigenberger Golf and Fitness Centre in El-Gouna, north of Hurghada, and the 18- hole Cascades Golf Resort and Country Club in Abu Soma. This part of the circuit combines well with safari tours through the Red Sea mountains, boat trips to islands such as Shedwan or Giftun, and even better, a Bedouin dinner around a desert campfire.
Luxor is one of the most interesting halts on this itinerary, where golfers can visit the ancient sites of both east and west banks, such as Luxor and Karnak temples, the Valleys of the Kings and Queens, and the statue of Memnon, as well as teeing off at the 18-hole Royal Valley Golf Club.
For more information on golf vacations, contact Minerva Travel and Tours on (+202) 761 8105.
ROCK-ART ROCKS: If you love the desert and are also interested in geology and culture, you might consider either the Gilf Al-Kebir Rock-Art Expedition or the Gilf Al-Kebir-Siwa Oasis Grand Expedition in Egypt's southwestern desert, both of which are organised by Zarzora Expeditions.
The Gilf Al-Kebir Rock-Art Expedition is a 12-day itinerary that starts in Cairo. You travel first to Dakhla Oasis, and then continue on across the whole desert span of the eastern Gilf Al-Kebir. Having climbed the plateau, the route heads off towards the west until it reaches the rock art site now known as the Mestekawi/Foggini Cave. This cave was only discovered in May 2002 during a Zarzora expedition led by Colonel Ahmed El-Mestekawi for Massimo Foggini, an Italian industrialist and desert traveller. It contains an astounding number of well-preserved paintings and engravings.
The paintings conjure up the life and customs of what may well be several human societies who once lived in this now extremely arid and remote part of Egypt. This Neolithic shelter is by far the richest ever found in this part of Northeast Africa. The trip then moves south to end at Wadi Wassa, from where the group returns to Dakhla and then to Cairo.
During the trip, travellers will be able to get to know Egypt's southwestern desert intimately, and learn about past geological epochs. According to Zarzora staff, the main objective of these expeditions is to explore and map out a rough diagramme of the early distribution of man along the Tropic of Cancer, and piece together the nature of the early communities that settled within what seems to us a supremely inhospitable environment.
The Gilf Al-Kebir-Siwa Oasis Grand Expedition is an even more challenging adventure. This 19-day expedition starts from Cairo to the White Desert south of Bahariya Oasis, then proceeds to Eastern Gilf Al-Kebir (crossing the entire area between Dakhla Oasis and the Gilf Plateau), Central Gilf Al- Kebir, the Mestekawi/Foggini Cave, Western Gilf Al-Kebir and Wadi Hamra. This latter is an extraordinary canyon cut into the northwestern outliers of Gilf Al-Kebir. Together with Wadi Abdel- Malik and Wadi Talh, Wadi Hamra forms the Zarzora Valley, first described by the Hungarian explorer Count L E Almasy (the real life The English Patient ). This environment shelters an extraordinary ecosystem, with trees, shrubs and animal life surviving in what is possibly the world's driest locale. From Zarzora, the expedition then heads north to the Great Sand Sea, then travels on to Siwa Oasis, from where the group will return first to Bahariya Oasis, and thence to Cairo.
The Gilf Al-Kebir Rock-Art Expedition leaves on 27 December 2004, while the Gilf Al-Kebir-Siwa Oasis Grand Expedition will depart on 25 December 2004.
For more information, contact Zarzora Expeditions on (+202) 760 9504/760 8157.
or log on to www.zarzora.com.
CAMPING ADVENTURES: If Zarzora organise expeditions for intellectuals and adventurers, there are also desert safaris designed to suit everyone, not just those who have a deep interest in geology or who want to study the desert and its inhabitants. If you just love nature and serenity and want to try something a little different, maybe one of these is for you?
This year several hotels and travel agencies are organising special desert safaris over Xmas and the New Year. Destinations include Bahariya Oasis, the White Desert, the Black Desert and Farafra in the Western Desert, as well as Nuweiba in South Sinai. Either way, travellers will get to enjoy a unique camping experience in the wilderness of nature.
Adventure Holidays, a subsidiary of Travco Group, offers a four-day/three-night safari in the Western Desert travelling in 4x4 Toyota Land cruisers. The journey starts from Cairo and proceeds to Bahariya, where travellers can tour the city, visit the Temple of Alexander the Great, the Tombs of the Nobles, the Golden Mummies and the English Mountain. The next day, you will drive on towards the White Desert, visiting the area of wonders, the mushroom area, the crystal mountain and the Black Desert. That night, you camp in the White House area where you will enjoy a delicious Bedouin dinner under the stars. The following morning, you start to explore the wild formations of the desert, the Santa Tree and wind-carved sculptures that resemble both human and animal faces. The group then drives to Farafra oasis, where you can tour the city and visit the museum of local artist Badr. On the last day you strike camp after breakfast and head back, both on- and off-road, through the magnificent desert till you reach Cairo.
Some hotels in Bahariya also organise desert safaris with camping facilities for travellers. One of these is Safari Camp, that organises trips to the White Desert by 4x4 as well as with camels. The 4x4 trip takes four hours, whereas the camel "adventure" takes five days! Though more hectic, the camel safari is also more fun. Rates are LE150 per person per day, including meals.
On Xmas and New Year Eve, Safari Camp will be setting up a special tent in the White Desert, another in the sand dune area and a third at the hotel itself. Celebrations will include a Bedouin meal around a campfire and a special Bedouin entertainment programme.
If you prefer the Sinai Desert, you could also have lots of fun in the wadis, canyons and dunes around Nuweiba in South Sinai. Basata Camp, situated between Nuweiba and Taba, organises special camel safari trips for small groups, families or friends guided by local Bedouins. This kind of safari is tailor-made, as you decide on the number of days you want, up to four at a time.
Rates are LE90 per person per day, including meals.
For more information on desert holidays contact Adventure Holidays, Travco Group on (+202) 738 2224; Safari Camp on (+202) 847 2090; and Basata Camp on (+2069) 350 0481.
CAMEL DIVE SAFARIS: The idea of diving with camels may sound peculiar, to say the least (how do they stop them chewing the snorkels up in the first half hour?) But it is in fact just short-hand for a really great way to escape totally from the mainstream commercial resorts and experience some of the best diving the Red Sea has to offer. The trip combines a few days of diving based at the relaxed village-style resort of Dahab, with a three- day camel safari up the coast to Ras Abu Galoum, where you can dive some fabulous remote sites while getting away from the Red Sea crowds in the company of local Bedouin.
Five nights are spent based in Dahab in South Sinai. The resort has a village atmosphere with some great Bedouin- style restaurants on the sea front and a fascinating selection of shops and bazaars. Dahab also boasts some fabulous dive sites, including the famous Blue Hotel. You will also have the opportunity to do a PADI-accredited Coral Reef Conservation specialty course, before heading north by camel to dive the pristine reefs further up the coast.
The three-day camel safari allows you to fully absorb the beauties of the Sinai Desert and to dive a stretch of coastline that is virtually untouched. The destination is Ras Abu Galoum, considered to be a flora frontier between tropical and Mediterranean ecosystems. There is a rich biodiversity of coral reef fish, as well as associated flora and fauna.
The camel safari is organised by a local Bedouin family who accompany travellers, cook all the traditional meals and provide Bedouin tents for overnight shelter. The result is a real experience of Bedouin desert culture.
For more information on the camel dive safari, log on to www.responsibletravel.com.
HOOKED ON THE NILE: Lake Nasser in southern Egypt is one of the largest man-made lakes in Africa. Thanks to Tim Baily, who has been involved in the safari business most of his life, it can also be the location for a wonderful fishing vacation. Baily's company, the African Angler, organises the most professional and most interesting fishing trips on the lake.
This could well be the experience of a lifetime, not only because of the professionalism of Baily, but also because Lake Nasser has the best Nile perch fishing in the world, as well as great Tiger fish and big catfish.
Aside from the terrific angling, the lake is a lovely place to visit. It's a magical wilderness of stunning desert scenery, setting off the sheer surface of the lake, dotted with rocky islands.
There is also an impressive variety of birds, mammals, and reptiles. More than 100 species of bird have been recorded, including wild ducks, Egyptian geese, pelicans, herons, egrets, and various species of hawks, kites, falcons and eagles.
In most parts of the lake, there are also crocodile and monitor lizards. Other types of wildlife you may come across include Dorcas gazelle, jackals, desert fox, and various smaller desert mammals.
A typical safari day involves getting up at first light for a couple of hours of shore fishing. Then, after breakfast, you set off in the boats for a day that mixes trolling with more shore fishing. The safari trip involves from one to four fishing boats, supported by a supply boat (mother ship) that acts as a mobile camp and rest area. The supply boats are well-equipped, with built-in kitchen, toilet and shower. There are also large iceboxes to keep the food and drinks cold. The fishing boats have been designed to provide an ideal fishing platform, and also double up as comfortable accommodation.
An experienced English-speaking fishing guide captains each boat.
The company provides several types of fishing safari: the Lake Nasser Safari, the Nubian Safari, and the Abu Simbel Safari, as well as one-day fishing trips. The Lake Nasser Safari starts every Tuesday and ends on a Sunday. It is designed for anglers travelling alone or with a friend, who would like to join in the atmosphere of a sociable camp with other anglers. The Nubian Safari, on the other hand, can start and end on any day of the year, and can last for as long as is required; the shortest available safari is two days and one night. This gives anglers the flexibility to decide exactly how long they want to be away. This safari is ideal for two or more anglers who like to fish together. It allows them to charter one or two fishing boats, and then set out to explore the lake at their own pace.
The Abu Simbel Safaris are a series of expeditions running between Garf Hussein and Abu Simbel. This itinerary involves approximately four days exploring areas which have seldom been fished before. You also get the opportunity to visit the temples of Abu Simbel, which are among the most magnificent monuments in the world.
However, for those whose time is tight or who want fishing to be just one part of their vacation, one-day fishing trips can be organised on any day of the year.
African Angler staff will collect you from your hotel or cruise boat at 8am and transfer you to your fishing boat for a full day's fishing. You will return to Aswan at 4.30pm.
For more information on fishing holidays, contact The African Angler on (+2097) 230 9748 or (+61) 2 9966 9316.
DIVING WITH CLEOPATRA: Diving is one of the major tourist attractions of the modern age. In Egypt, many travellers head directly for the Red Sea resorts because of the marvelous snorkelling and diving they offer. With its wealth of coral reefs, exotic fish species and unique marine life, the Red Sea is a true divers' paradise. Islands around Hurghada such as Giftun and Shedwan, and sites in south Sinai including Ras Mohamed and Tiran, should figure on any list of the top diving sites in the world.
But what if you want to essay a different approach to water? The Red Sea is not Egypt's only sea. So why not try a dive in the Mediterranean? Or, on a more modest level, a plunge in the hot and cold springs of Siwa?
These more inventive options are now possible through Alexandra Dive, a diving centre based at the Eastern Harbour in Alexandria, owned by Ashraf Sabri, a hyperbaric healthcare specialist and a professional diver with an interest in sunken treasure. As well as the headquarters in Alexandria, there are branches of the centre in Marsa Matrouh on Rommel Island, and in the Mövenpick Alamein Resort on the north-west coast. In Siwa, Sabri also owns Siwa Spa and Safari, that organises diving safaris in the oasis's freshwater springs.
In Alexandria, the centre offers five diving spots in the Eastern Harbour. The first is called Qait Bey and is situated close to the Qait Bey fort at depths of between eight and 10 metres. It contains about 4,000 archaeological pieces that date from Pharaonic to Graeco-Roman times. The second spot is called Qait Bey 2 and is 200 metres north of Qait Bey fort. In this area, you can see dozens of amphorae littered on the seabed around an ancient wreck.
Qait Bey 3 is the third spot, 650 metres north-west of Qait Bey fort, at depths between 15 and 18 metres. Here divers can explore wrecks dating back to the third century BC. The fourth spot is known as East Harbour, Site One, and is located in the eastern harbour at a depth of up to eight metres. The site includes relics of the royal district from Ptolemaic and Roman times, including several columns, sphinxes and royal statues. The fifth and last dive is East Harbour, Site Two. Here the dramatic remains of an Italian fighter plane shot down in World War II loom out of the darkness, surreally surrounded by a forest of ancient columns and statuary.
You can take just a one-day safari, or book a package for three days/two nights, four days/three nights or seven days/six nights, which will allow you to mix diving with sightseeing and entertainment in Alexandria. Alexandra Dive's trips start in the early morning, preceded by a lecture on the site, its historical importance, and details of the objects to be found there.
In Marsa Matrouh to the west of Cairo, divers can explore 15 sunken warships, a submarine and an aeroplane that date back to World War II. The scene under the water is picturesque, with different species of Mediterranean fish and octopuses darting in and out of the military relics, surrounded by columns festooned with sea weed. Moreover, according to Sabri, large parts of the northern coast are pitted with rocky caves that are rich in fish and other marine creatures.
In Siwa, the diving experience is a bit different, as it takes place in the oasis's freshwater springs. There are no sunken relics, only colourful marine creatures and rocks twisted into the most amazing shapes. In the Cleopatra spring, divers plunge to nine metres where they watch the bubbles of sulphurous water emerging from the ground. Abu Shroof spring dates back to the Roman era and looks like a deep swimming pool, surrounded by a period fence.
But the most interesting place for diving in Siwa is on the Island of Sitnas, where there are both hot and cold water springs. The adventure starts with sand skiing on the island until noon. When you are done with this fun, you can take a dive in the cold water spring whose temperature is about 20 degrees centigrade, then follow that up with a sun bath. Very near to the cold water spring lies the hot spring whose temperature is 48 degrees centigrade! There, you can swim and relax in the bubbling water for hours. At the end of the day, you return to the spa, shower and get ready for the Bedouin dinner prepared by the Siwans, which includes sheep cooked in the hot sand, karkadeh (hibiscus) and other traditional refreshments.
For more information about a diving holiday, contact Alexandra Dive on (+203) 483 2045, or e-mail [email protected].
CRUISING UP THE NILE: Don't be fooled by the title. We don't mean the classic Nile cruise, in a kind of deluxe floating hotel with fully furnished cabins, satellite TVs, showers, dryers, saloons, open buffets and oh-so-risky galabiya parties. What we're proposing is something much more modest, more down-to- earth, and more fun. Cruising by felucca can appeal to both the adventurous and the budget-conscious. The romance of sailing on the Nile with a crew of local sailors combined with the natural beauty of the green fields on either side and some of the greatest historical sites in the world, makes for an excellent blend of culture, physical activity and sheer enjoyment.
Travellers arrive at Cairo where they spend the first night. Next morning they visit the Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza, before boarding the overnight train to Aswan. The following two days in Aswan are free for you to explore the vibrant city, as well as the Abu Simbel temples to the south. Then come the serious sailing. The three-day felucca adventure takes you from Aswan to Kom Ombo and then to Edfu. All meals are provided on board. Don't expect sumptuous cuisine, but you will be surprised by the quality and tastiness of the food cooked by the locals. From Edfu, travellers are transferred by bus to a hotel in Luxor. Again, it is not a chain hotel, but a small local hotel that is cozy and clean.
In the afternoon, you can take a horse carriage to the Karnak Temple for a guided tour. Next morning there is donkey ride to the Valley of Kings at dawn, and then you are free in the afternoon to explore the backstreets of Luxor and its bustling bazaars.
For more information on a felucca holiday, log on to www.responsibletravel.com.


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